Namche Bazaar - Dhole (4110m asl)
Day 11. 13.12.22

We got an early start, being on the trail by 8am but not before receiving a whopping bill from our guesthouse in Namche. It was to be expected but US$50 for our washing was a bit much. It was a steady but steep climb with great views of Ama Dablam. All the trekkers we saw leaving Namche were headed for EBC so we were alone again as we were heading for Gokyo. By 4:30pm we stumbled exhausted and cold into Dhole and have now gone above 4000m asl for the first time. The daily increase in altitude is a little more than advised but it means we have done part of the long climb to Macchermo which we will reach tomorrow and perhaps even further to Phangga at 4480m. We are now coming across frozen streams and crossing slippery ice patches as we steadily climb the Ngozumba glacial valley. I promised Mia that if we could reach Dhole we’d watch the World Cup semi-final but the lodge we found only had solar power and no tv or wifi. Boy, are we becoming fussy! Mia has recovered well but I remain quite exhausted and have muscular aches.