Dhole - Machhermo (4470m asl)
Day 12. 14.12.22

I had a terrible night. I could not breathe properly and had to get up in the cold multiple times to wee. We have started taking Diamox to aid in acclimatization but it acts as a diuretic. After some advice from a fellow trekker staying at our lodge, we have stopped taking the Diamox till we physically have symptoms of altitude sickness rather than take it as a prophylactic. My breathing had made me noticeably anxious and at times I felt I stopped breathing completely till I found myself gasping for air and hyperventilating. I was moaning most of the night despite Oo and Mia being unaware as they succumbed to their slumber. We needed to make a terrible decision whether to head back down to a lower elevation or keep going. I decided on the latter once I felt I had recovered somewhat and we walked for our shortest time, arriving at Machhermo by midday. The landscape was dramatic and the walking not too tough but we were all still breathless from the altitude. We found a lodge with a single trekker inside. It was a warm afternoon sun but soon got real cold once it slipped beyond the mountains.