My friend, Brendan Graham from Sydney, was planning a 3-month solo bicycle tour of Northern India starting July 2012 and I was lucky enough to join him for the first month of the leg from Srinagar in Kashmir to Leh in Ladakh. It's a distance of only 418 km but the road conditions are horrendous in large parts and the mountain climbs were like nothing I have ever previously experienced. We cycled over the highest motorable road in the world, and caught a glimpses of the Moslem and Buddhist spirit that permeates the wonderful Indian states of Kashmir and Ladakh.